Thank you WWD for featuring my perspective in your article, “Synthetics Are the New Naturals at Tranoi Parfums New York“.
Here are some of my favorite excerpts:
Perfumers and retailers agree that an advertised use of synthetic ingredients is a burgeoning trend in niche fragrance. This was the sentiment expressed by some of the perfumers and retail buyers at the Tranoï Parfums show in New York earlier this week. Speaking on a panel Monday, Eric Weiser, owner of Brooklyn-based niche fragrance boutique Twisted Lily, said that customers now are curious about the unknown, and attracted to products that are futuristic-seeming in their packaging and formulations, even if that means forgoing natural ingredients. “They are more fascinated with fragrances that surpass what you traditionally think of,” said Weiser. “What does a solar eclipse smell like?”
Part of the naturals trend, he said, is the idea that customers know where their ingredients come from because they are invested in the story, noting the rise in popularity of the oud note, because of its rich heritage, as an example. “It’s exactly what customers look for when they look for farm-to-table cooking and handmade shoes,” said Weiser. “It has intrigue.”
Another brand at Tranoï with a big story was Euphorium Brooklyn. Founder Stephen Dirkes founded his line of eau de parfums around three fictional founders, 19th-century characters of his own creation. Each scent has a backstory about how the founder came to create the scent, and which tinctures, oils and extracts he used to compose the fragrance. “It’s all about the story,” said Dirkes.
Perfumer Sherri Sebastian agreed. “Customers want to be part of the story.” Her line of plant-based scents and upscale body care, Provision, which she launched at Tranoï Parfums in New York, is about a “paradigm shift” in thinking,” she told WWD. A pillow spray designed to aid in falling asleep faster is called a dream extract. “When I thought about [the product] in terms of dreaming, I fell asleep faster than if I was thinking about [the word] sleep,” said Sebastian.