My monthly contributor series on award-winning perfume blog, ÇaFleureBon called “Notes from the Lab” finishes up this month with the topic “Perfume Ingredients”. Below is an excerpt, for the full article head on over to ÇaFleureBon here.
After many years of working as a perfumer, writing formulas has become second nature to me. I find it to be calming and therapeutic. When I hear “experts” talking about fragrances—their notes, the latest status of “naturals,” ingredient labelling, niche vs. artisans— my mind wanders back to my formulas.
Last month I shared some notes from my early journals when I began studying raw materials in 1991; their origin, chemical nature, smell, and even their taste in some cases. Continuing on, please enjoy the following review as I work my way through the raw material alphabet from hedione to phenyl ethyl alcohol.
Rose Absolue: Rose has been called the ‘Queen of Flowers.’ I can see why, due to its adaptability in compositions ranging from spicy floral, to green floral, to classic Chypres. Extracted from the petals of roses in a time-honored tradition, variations of rose ‘absolute’ are produced in several locations including Morocco, France, Bulgaria, and Turkey.
Zingerone is a trade name for 3-methoxy-4-hydroxy-benzylacetone. On its own this crystalline powder is pungent and almost mechanical smelling. Used properly in dilution, it adds a natural textured effect (a ‘zing!’) to a variety of fruits and is commonly associatedwith ginger.
I’ve enjoyed sharing my personal journals with you. I hope you have enjoyed it too. Stay tuned for a new topic in April!
All the best,