My new monthly contributor series on award-winning perfume blog, ÇaFleureBon called “Notes from the Lab” continues this month with the topic “Fragrance Innovation vs. Duplication”. Below is an excerpt, for the full article head on over to ÇaFleureBon here.
Perfumery today has become a rapidly expanding culture of analyzing and copying existing fragrances. Although analytical instrumentation may have overridden the need for patience, it hasn’t replaced the deep understanding necessary to truly innovate. Slick marketing campaigns are designed to make existing fragrances seem new and exciting, but a discerning nose isn’t fooled by pretty packaging and a cleverly worded campaign.
In my early years of perfumery training, my mentors encouraged me to study patterns and genealogy to develop a “feel” for ingredients and their subtle interplay. I was forbidden from viewing gas chromatogram formulations (GC’s) of market samples for fear that I’d short circuit a deep and lasting understanding of composition.
Many groundbreaking fragrances have begun from the GC formulation of an existing scent, so the question is raised, “what is duplication vs. innovation?’”